Fresh rainbow trout With California Chardonnay

Fresh rainbow trout is a delicacy and is at its best when just caught. Tank-bred trout are sold live in specialty food shops and good fish markets. Store fresh trout packed in ice in the refrigerator until you are ready to cook it. Frozen trout is commonly available but may have lost some of its delicate flavor. Defrost frozen trout overnight in the refrigerator.

Assemble these supplies:

• 2 lemons
• 4 whole rainbow trout, bluefish, or perch (8 to 10 ounces each), or eight 1/2-inch-thick fillets (3 to 4 ounces each)
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup flour
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• A cup vegetable oil
• 1/3 cup dry white wine
• 1/3 cup chopped parsley, plus additional sprigs for garnish 1 stick unsalted butter

Steps in preparation:

1. Preheat oven to 200 degrees.
2. Squeeze enough lemon to measure V3 cup juice and slice lemon "wheels" for garnish.
3. If using whole fish, remove fins and, with knife, gently scrape skin to remove scales. Wipe whole fish or fillets with damp paper towels and pat dry.
4. On large flat plate, mix flour with salt and pepper to taste. Roll fish or dip fillets in flour to coat lightly.
5. In large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium- high heat. Add 2 whole fish or 4 fillets. Cook whole fish 4 minutes per side, fillets 2 to 3 minutes per side, turning with spatula. Transfer to plates and place in oven.
6. Repeat cooking process with remaining fish.
7. Pour off excess oil. Add lemon juice, wine, and VI cup parsley to skillet. Over medium-high heat, reduce liquid by about half, about 3 minutes.
8. Add butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking constantly.
9. Remove plates from oven, pour sauce over fish, and garnish with parsley sprigs and halved lemon "wheels."

WHAT TO DRINK

A good-quality white Burgundy, such as a Meursault, or a fine California Chardonnay, is right for this trout classic.