Sautéed Quail

Quail, which are all white meat and virtually fat free, are so small that you must allow two per serving. Generally more flavorful than chicken, they cook very fast. Over cooking will spoil their flavor and even their looks, for if they are baked or roasted too long, they fall apart. This recipe calls for sautéing the birds about 20 minutes, an ideal technique, and then coating them with a bourbon- accented cream sauce. Because they are so small, they are hard to eat without using your fingers, particularly for the leg and thigh meat.

Assemble these supplies:

• 8 fresh quail, or 8 frozen quail, thoroughly defrosted Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 1/2 cup plus 1/3 cup bourbon
• 1/2 cup finely chopped onions
• 2 tablespoons flour
• 1 1/2 cups chicken broth
• Sprigs of parsley (optional)

Steps in preparation:

1. Split quail with poultry shears down their backs, and spread open.
2. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper.
3. Taking care not to let it burn, melt butter over high heat in sauté pan.
4. Place quail, flesh side down, in hot butter and sauté 3 minutes.
5. Turn and sauté on other side 3 minutes more, or until both sides are golden.
6. Using poultry shears, cut quail down the backbone.
7. Plunge asparagus into cold water to stop cooking and to set color.
8. Drain and set aside until 5 minutes before serving.
9. Melt butter in skillet. Add asparagus and toss in hot butter.
10. Add chervil and salt. Serve immediately.